EARS
EAV (Elk Antler Velvet)
By my friend Kile Sabescay from Winipeg, Canada:
For some 6 years now, I have studied the use of EAV ( Elk Antler
> Velvet ) and it's beneficial effects on health, as it relates to
> humans and animals. I have been amazed to find in my time working
> with this supplement, just how well it works, and with the all of the
> studies being done proving it's results, it's potential for our
> pigeons could not be ignored.
>
>
>
> So after many lengthy discussions with my good friend Raymond Julien,
> it was agreed that a trial was necessary with our birds to see if the
> results could be duplicated from other studies done on humans and
> animals. What we hope to achieve is to attempt to correct some the
> unique issues related to our modenas and their fertility, as well as
> immune response to disease, and feather quality/conditionin g. With
> Raymond's extensive knowledge of pigeon health, and his dedication to
> doing things by the letter so to speak when it comes to administering
> his supplements to his birds, there could not be a better breeder to
> team up with for this supplement trial, and to put the survey
> together for the next people to try it. The two of us have both used
> it this year in our lofts, with excellent results, so early
> indications of positive results for pigeons are very promising. We
> will post our early results in coming posts……….
>
>
>
> EAV in it's own right is an extremely complex supplement that has
> been in use in Asian medicine dating back over 2000 years. It is made
> up of the velvet produced by antlered animals during the growth phase
> of the antler on a given animal. ( Elk, Moose, Deer, etc. )
> This "velvet" is responsible for producing the antler in a very short
> period, and I have heard it called "a miracle of nature" due to the
> fact that it produces this dense antler that is pound for pound as
> strong as steel in such a short period of time, by transporting the
> nutrient concentrated in the blood to the antlers. Also, the blood
> vessels contained inside the velvet contain the hormones responsible
> for influencing and elevating many hormones in the body of the animal
> including testosterone, growth hormone, Insulin growth-like factors 1
> & 2, etc. The main components of velvet antler are the amino acids
> glycine, alanine, proline, and glutamic acid. In addition,
> phospholipids and several minerals (calcium, phosphorus, magnesium,
> iron, and potassium) and chileated minerals are present (Sunwoo,
> 1998). Glycine supplements are popular among individuals seeking
> strength gains and have been used as an ergogenic (sports enhancing)
> aid since l940. Chowchillas (1941) first reported that 6 grams of
> glycine per day alone for example, for 10 weeks produced large
> increases in the strength of trained athletes. Applying the newest
> proven science behind EAV to our birds was the next step………….
>
>
>
> This introduction to EAV will be followed by additional sections
> related to fertility, immune response, dosage, and conditioning. Our
> goal is to contribute both to our breed and to our hobby, a new
> generation supplement that can help all breeders in one way or
> another. Our hope is that Modena breeders can correct many of the
> fertility problems they face by increasing the bird's own hormones
> and internal health, necessary for high fertility to take place in a
> safe and natural way without adding any sort of synthetically based
> drugs at all. More to come……….
ELDERBERRY JUICE:
Elderberry juice sirop BVP, feed supplement for pigeons. An old natural product to keep your pigeons healthy.
The Juice of the Elderberry, for hundreds of years, has proved through test to give a certain amount of immunity. This is an inexpensive way to keep your pigeons healthy
INDICATIONS:
- Strengthens the immune system.
- Regulates metabolism.
- Keeps pigeons healthy throughout the year.
- Strengthens the intestinal flora.
INSTRUCTIONS:
- Managing three days a week at a rate of 15 ml per kg of food. Add 5 grams of Probiotic Probiolec.
EMBRYONIC DEATH
DEAD IN SHELL YOUNGSTERS
By Dr Colin Walker BSc, BVSc, MRCVS, MACVSc (Avian health)
With breeding now in full swing I receive regular calls from fanciers that fertile eggs are failing to hatch i.e. that the embryos these eggs contain are dying through the incubation time. Many fanciers immediately think of Salmonella when they see this, when in fact all infections together including Salmonella account for less than 5% of all dead in-shell youngsters.
And so just why do these youngsters die? Most youngsters that die in the egg usually die either in the first few days of incubation, or alternatively the last few days of incubation. In the first few days embryo death is usually due to either inadequate incubation leading to too low a temperature to keep the chick alive, excessive jarring of the egg that either fatally damages the chick or yolk, or alternatively, a genetic problem affecting the chick which is incompatible with life.
Towards the end of incubation, chicks usually die as a result of problems associated with hatching. As incubation ends the chick has to shift from getting its oxygen through the membranes that surround it, to breathing air and also re-absorb its yolk sac (which supplies it with both food and immunity). If the temperature or humidity is incorrect at this time these processes fail to occur correctly and the chick can die.
Between the beginning and end of incubation the chick is essentially just growing and it is here that nutrition and infection become more important. If the young chick is lacking a nutrient it needs for growth or becomes infected it dies.
This year has been a particularly good breeding season for me in that I have not failed to wean a single fertile egg i.e. every egg that was fertile has hatched and been weaned. I have now weaned 50 youngsters. Although pleasing this situation is unusual despite the best of care. I did however, have one fancier mention to me last week that he had had 30% of all fertile eggs fail to hatch. He did not seen overly concerned and appeared to think that nothing could be done. This is far from the truth. An embryo fatality of 5% could be regarded as normal. Anything more than this should arouse suspicions of a problem.
For those of you having a problem with dead-in-the-shell youngsters, lets have a look at the potential problems that can arise with each of these periods of incubation in more detail, so that hopefully the problem can be solved.
Embryonic Death At The Start Of Incubation
Deaths early in incubation can be detected by opening the egg and seeing that it is in fact fertile, but that the embryo is only poorly developed. As mentioned earlier, the usual cause is poor incubation leading to the egg becoming cold after development has started. Possible causes include improper nesting material, over interference by the fancier, inadequate control of nest bowl mites or pigeon flies, failure to provide second nest bowl for next pair of eggs, too many birds in a section, older arthritic birds, poor nest box design, competition with other birds within the loft, poor parenting, nest box too hot or too cold or poorly ventilated, disturbance outside loft etc. Also as mentioned earlier, eggs are very vulnerable to vibration type injuries early in incubation. Shaking or jarring can kill the developing embryo either directly or by rupturing the yolk. This is of particular relevance when eggs are being transferred for fostering. The effect of thunderstorms is a total myth. Embryos that are unlucky enough to have genetic abnormalities usually also die early in incubation. Genetic problems are more likely to occur with in-breeding.
Deaths From Day 4 To Day14 Of Incubation
This is the longest period through incubation and yet is the time when least deaths occur. The embryo is simply growing. The growing chick receives its nutrition from the yolk and deaths here can reflect nutritional problems in the hen. Hens that are correctly fed produce nutritious yolks that support healthy embryos. The effect of stock bird nutrition is very underrated. By simply feeding a blend of 2-3 grains and grit it is not possible to prepare the stock hens well for breeding. Fanciers who believe they can do this often accept an elevated embryo death rate or several weak chicks in the nest, as normal.
Although embryos can die of infection at any time through incubation, it is at this time of growth that they are most vulnerable. Certainly there are some infections that can be carried by the hen such as Chlamydia and Salmonella, that can infect the ovary. These can be incorporated into the egg at the time of its formation, and subsequently infect and kill the embryo as it grows. Infection can also pass through the oviduct wall into the egg. These types of infections, that enter the egg prior to laying, are in the minority however. Most infections that embryos develop are caught after hatching in the nest. Nests that are dirty, poorly ventilated or excessively humid lead to egg- shell contamination and movement of infectious agents into the egg. Egg quality is also important here. Cracked, thin, mis-shapen, rough eggs allow easier entry of infection and are more subject to trauma. Poor eggs can be due to oviduct disease, but are more often associated with a nutritional deficiency in particular calcium deficiency. Some fanciers will have noticed eggs with translucent clear lines running around the outside of the egg, showing the eggs rotations, as it was passing down the oviduct. These thin areas can be an early sign of calcium deficiency.
Embryonic Deaths At The End Of Incubation
Through incubation a membrane called the chorioallantois develops around the chick. The chorioallantois acts a bit like a human placenta, in that it delivers air to the embryo after it diffuses through the shell. At the end of incubation the chick must swap from a chorioallantoic respiration to breathing air. It does this in two stages. First it internally pips. This involves cutting a small hole into the air chamber at the end of the egg and starting to breath the air it contains. At this stage vibrations can be felt in the egg and chick will sometimes vocalize. After another 12-24 hours the chick then cracks the shell and breaths external air. While this is happening the last of the yolk sac (the chicks nutrition during incubation) is drawn into the navel (and eventually ends up as a tiny sac in the wall of the small intestine called Merkels diverticulum which lasts the whole life of the bird). Interestingly, during this time, the chick also drinks the clear fluid around it called the amniotic fluid. This amniotic fluid, and also the yolk sac contain the antibodies that protect the chick from infection in the first few weeks of life.
While all this complex physiology is going on the chick is vulnerable to problems. Too high or low temperature or humidity during this time will adversely affect the chick. The usual problem, is however, too high a temperature, or too low a humidity. This combination causes the shell and shell membrane to become hard and dry. This can lead to even a healthy chick becoming exhausted. In addition to this, the chick quickly becomes dehydrated. I am sure many of you, myself included, have helped these chicks hatch only to find them dead later. These chicks die because they are dehydrated. Such chicks if given small drops of water will often suck them down greedily and survive. These dehydrated chicks are called sticky chicks because of the way they stick to the dry shell membranes. They are often found dead after hatching ¼ to1/2 the way. If removed from the shell they often have unabsorbed yolk sacs and there is often dry, gluggy albumen still in the egg. For consistently high hatch rates, it is vital the stock birds have access to either rain or a bath around this time. If not possible the underside of the hen and also the eggs can be lightly misted with water from a spray bottle. Ideally the nest box should have a temperature of 20-25 degrees celsius, and a humidity of 70%. If unsure, a thermometer and hygrometer can be placed in the nest box.
In summary, in most lofts hatchability can be dramatically improved by three simple steps:
Improving stock bird nutrition in the months prior to breeding.
A fresh nest bowl for every round, and ongoing nest box hygiene.
Access to rain or a bath around hatching.
If attending to these matters does not help, your avian veterinarian will usually want to test the hen for infection, or alternatively do an egg autopsy.
E COLI.
In this situation of illness, there
is also a product sell by Siegel that can help the bird to fight the disease.
It cannot cure directly as there is NO PRODUCT that exists that CAN KILL VIRUSES but it can very much help the immune system of the bird to fight the disease. This product is
called...ECOL-TONIC.
It is an all-natural product fortified
with ten special organic acids and proven in the loft to be effective in
boosting immunity and promoting health and vigor, and bringing the droppings
back to normal in pigeons. Again, it is recommended to follow the treatment
with a good probiotic.
Each young bird season we see an increase in disease involving the bacteria E.coli. E.coli is a normal inhabitant of the digestive system of pigeons. It has disease potential, but usually needs a predisposing condition to allow it the opportunity to cause infection. Several things can “open the door” for E.coli to cause disease.
Stress, viral infections, intestinal parasites, and other irritants f the bowel such as chemicals consumed while fielding. The usual predisposing factor for young birds is adenovirus. It begins appearing when birds are mixed, either in training, races or when accumulating birds from various sources.
The adenovirus by itself will not cause disease, but in the presence of E.coli, it allows the E.coli to cause disease. Treating the E.coli infection usually eliminates symptoms although it does nothing for the adenovirus infection; this is usually conquered by the birds own immune system with time. There is not an effective vaccine for adenovirus, so we must just let it run it’s course as we try to control the E.coli during outbreaks.
Usually during outbreaks of colibacillosis (E.coli infection), we use a broad spectrum antibiotic such as Amoxicillin to control it. Antibiotics will not prevent it so use them only during an outbreak. The symptoms usually include vomiting in some of the birds, abnormal droppings or diarrhea, and lethargy.
The birds will not train or race well during an uncontrolled outbreak. A fecal culture and sensitivity study will allow oneto choose the correct antibiotic to use. Often we just go with one that has a good “track record,” and that has little or no effect on the birds, allowing one to continue training, etc.
Amoxicillin is my first choice of antibiotics when “shooting from the hip”. It is gentle on the pigeon and is the least expensive of the good antibiotics. Use 3 Grams per gallon for about 7 days. Retreatment is often necessary, as things may deteriorate within the weeks after treating, as the viral infection spreads through the flock.
Do not forget not to use antibiotics as a preventive. They will not work as preventive, but will only allow the bacteria to become resistant to it, then it won’t work when we really need it.
E.coli in Young Birds by Dr. David E. Marx DVM
ECOL-TONIC
In this situation of illness, there is also a product sell by Siegel that can help the bird to fight the disease. It cannot cure directly as there is no product that exists that can kill viruses but it can help the immune system to fight the disease. This product is called...Ecol-Tonic. It is an all-natural product fortified with ten special organic acids and proven in the loft to be effective in boosting immunity and promoting health and vigor, and bringing the droppings back to normal in pigeons. Again, it is recommended to follow the treatment with a good probiotic.
Raymond Julien,
EGGS
Holding and swiching eggs:
Dr. David E. Marx D.V.M.
Holding And Switching Eggs
There are often times, at least for some breeders to switch eggs under
foster parents for one reason or another.
This is easily done, but the timing of incubation with both pairs needs to
be similar. Usually, if the sets of eggs are laid within 3 days of each
other, the switch goes uneventfully.
If the babies hatch too early, the foster parents will not have sufficient
crop milk, and the babies will perish or develop poorly. If they hatch too
late, the foster parents may desert the eggs or already be on the downside
of crop milk production.
To achieve the proper timing, eggs frequently need to be "held" before the
foster parents have eggs of their own. I have heard many ways of
successfully doing this, but what I am going to relate here is what I have
experienced personally.
A few years ago I did a lot of egg switching as I rotated hens on the
breeding cocks. A cadre of "pumpers" was kept. I always attempted to get the
eggs to time out correctly, but often they did not. This results, usually,
in holding eggs until a pumper pair lays.
Eggs can be easily held for 3 to 5 days at room temperature, before
incubation has started, and placed under foster parents when the timing is
right. When held, the eggs should be turned at least twice daily.
Success can be achieved holding up to 10 days but success rate diminishes
after 3 to 5 days of holding. Eggs held in the hydrator drawer of a
refrigerator can be held somewhat longer.
Some people claim higher success holding the eggs after incubation has
proceeded for several days. I have had poorer success doing this.
The developing embryo is very fragile at this time and just a little shaking
can cause it's death. Also it is more sensitive to chill, in my experience.
Eggs that have never been incubated usually give the best results when held.
The thing to remember is to stay as close to nature as possible. The natural
"window" can be stretched to fit into our manipulation of things. Remember
that the longer we stretch it, or the more we manipulate, the less we can
expect to succeed.
Eggs
Introductory Information
Most of the time, a hen is stimulated to lay her eggs because she mated with a male. Sometimes, however, a hen may be stimulated to lay eggs even if no successful mating took place. Occasionally, a hen will lay eggs even if no male is even present in her enclosure: she may pair off with another hen, or simply lay eggs without any stimulation from any mate at all. Of course fertile eggs will only result from a successful mating with a male, but the point is that sometimes hens will lay eggs even without the possibility of any of them being fertile.
That being stated, if you have a male-female pair of gouldians who has completed their nest and mated, you will most likely be seeing eggs arrive in the nest soon. Once a pair has copulated, a small percentage of sperm from the male's ejaculate is stored in special "sperm storage tubules" in the female's reproductive tract. She may store sperm there for up to about 16 days and release some of it as she ovulates. This helps to ensure that sperm is available to fertilize her ova when she is ready to lay her eggs. It also allows her to produce multiple fertile eggs days after the last mating took place. The important implication of this is realizing that a hen pulled from a cage with multiple males in it may be carrying the sperm of different cock birds for about two weeks (contrary to popular belief, even "monogamous" species will engage in extra-pair copulations). Therefore, if you have a specific mating pair in mind (Hen "X" with Cock "Y") and want to produce offspring from this pair alone, you will need to keep other cocks away from Hen "X" for at least a 16 days before introducing Cock "Y" to her for breeding purposes.
 Once you have witnessed the pair mating, you should expect to see eggs in the nest within approximately 5-7 days. Gouldian eggs are laid once a day, usually daily and usually during the early morning hours (video), until a clutch anywhere from 3-8 eggs is produced (4-6 eggs most commonly).2 It would be wise to keep track of the date that each egg is laid (as well as the date on which incubation begins) for monitoring purposes, as explained later. Of course, make sure you are feeding an adequate diet and providing a constant source of calcium (such as a cuttle bone) to reduce the risk of complications such as egg binding.
Parental Care of Eggs
Fertile eggs can survive for about one week before incubation commences. If incubation does not begin within a week of an egg being laid, its hatchability decreases significantly. Gouldians normally begin incubating their clutch after the 3rd-4th egg is laid,2 although some pairs will wait until the clutch is complete to begin incubation. You will know incubation has begun when at least one of the birds is sitting on the eggs, not only during the day, but also at night. Usually both parents share the responsibility of incubation during the day. At night the hen alone usually incubates, although the cock may sleep next to her.2 Remember to record the date at which incubation begins, so you will be able to monitor the progress of the eggs. Please note that many pairs will not incubate their eggs unless at least three eggs are present in their nest.
Once incubation has begun, it should not be ceased (or the embryos will die). Eggs may be left unattended for brief periods of time (up to about 15-30 minutes), however, while the parent birds stretch their wings, or take a break to eat and drink. Parents instinctively know to gently turn the eggs beneath them periodically as they incubate, which allows the embryos to develop properly. In addition to warmth, eggs require a certain humidity to survive. This can be accomplished by providing the parents with a bath (a shallow dish or bowl of water) so that they may moisten the eggs with their damp bellies after bathing. Incubation generally takes 14-16 days.2
 Unfortunately parents do not always care for their eggs correctly. Some birds will accidentally puncture an egg (see below for methods of egg repair), and if the damage is bad enough, consume the egg (often this is the cause of "disappearing eggs"). This is why it is important to clip the birds' toenails before they breed, and one of the reasons to only provide them with safe nesting materials.
If the parents do not seem attentive to the eggs, it may be wise to place the eggs under the care of foster parents or to incubate them artificially, as described below.
Performing Nest Checks
Breeding Gouldians should not be disturbed unnecessarily. Hovering about and tampering with their nest makes most birds very nervous and my cause them to abandon their nest and eggs. Some individuals, however, will tolerate occasional nest inspections, with some pairs tolerating nest checks better than others. If you have had a pair abandon their nest and eggs in the past, you should probably not risk nest inspections with that pair in the future.
That stated, occasional nest checks, when done correctly, can help you gain information about the status of the eggs. If you have set up the breeding cage with an external nest box that has a hinged top, you will be able to perform the easiest and least intrusive nest checks. Nests placed inside of the enclosure are more difficult to get to, so use your best judgment about whether or not inspecting those nests is worth risking the pair abandoning their eggs.
Ideally, you should only inspect a nest when both of the birds are outside of it. Hopefully the nest is eye level to you so that you can simply peer inside to see if eggs have been laid yet, and if so, how many have been laid. Try to avoid the temptation of hovering about a breeding pair's cage. The more privacy you can give your birds, the better. I recommend glancing into the nest from a distance (if possible) once per day while you are providing the birds with fresh food and water. Record the dates that you see each egg laid, and record the date that you notice the pair begin incubation.
If you need to reach into the nest for any reason (such as candling eggs for fertility as described below), make sure to wash your hands first, to be very gentle with the eggs, and to make the nest check as brief as possible.
Candling Eggs
To accurately tell if an egg is fertile or not, you must candle it. This is a somewhat delicate procedure in which a small light source (such as a little flash light or an "egg candler") is held up to an egg on or after the fifth day of incubation to see if any growth is evident. This is part of the reason why keeping track of the incubation start date is important. Do not attempt to candle eggs if this is your birds' first clutch or if your birds have a tendency to abandon their eggs upon being disturbed.
  If you are going to candle, make sure you wash your hands thoroughly. You should also make sure the light source you are using is clean; good hygiene is a must when handling eggs. The candler should have a low-wattage (<< 40) bulb; too high a wattage can damage or kill an embryo.3 Candling is not easy to do in a well-lit room; if you can, dim the lights in the bird room or bring the nest into a room where you can set the lighting to low. Next, if you can, very carefully place your light source up to the side of one egg at a time while they are still within the nest. If you cannot easily or safely maneuver your light source within the nest, you will need to CAREFULLY remove the eggs from the nest (without crushing or cracking them) and hold the light up to each egg outside of the nest. After you have evaluated the eggs, return them to the nest (and replace the nest in the enclosure if you had to remove it).
If an egg is viable, you will be able to see a network of small red veins, and possibly see the developing embryo. The large end of the egg should contain an air pocket. On the fifth day of incubation, you may be able to witness the embryo's heart beating. Candling eggs which have been incubated longer than 5 days will show increased development: the veins may appear larger and cover a larger area, and eventually the chick will fill up most of the space within the egg. You may be able to see the chick moving about inside of the egg as it grows larger. You should candle all of the eggs on day 5 and again on day 10 of incubation, to see if the eggs have developed further or if any embryos have died within the egg. If the eggs are still viable on day 10, you should see darkness (the chick) covering most of the inside of the egg.
  
Infertile egg Fertile egg Fertile egg
Infertile or "clear" eggs will appear empty except for a yellow yolk and the air pocket. Occasionally, an embryo will die at an early stage of life and nothing but a thin blood ring will be visible within the egg. Wait a few days and re-candle these eggs to be sure that they are not developing. Some breeders chose to eliminate these eggs, but doing so may run the risk of causing the parents to abandon the nest. Leaving at least 3-4 eggs in the clutch will encourage the pair to return to incubation, but there is usually no harm in leaving infertile eggs in the nest. You may wish to remove them a few days after any fertile eggs have hatched. If all of the eggs are clear, and remain clear when they are re-candled a few days later, they may be discarded. The pair will probably want to start a new clutch, but you should first address the reason that their eggs are clear before you let them attempt another clutch (see below).
To see what the inside of a fertile finch egg looks like at 5 days of incubation, place your mouse cursor over the image below:
Mouse over the image to see how it appears with lights off.
Fertile Eggs: from Formation to Hatching
A cock and hen copulate and the cock passes his ejaculate to the hen who stores some of his sperm in her reproductive tract. When the hen ovulates, some sperm is released. A spermatozoa only has a very short window of time to fertilize the ova, as albumen ("egg white") will be deposited soon, which blocks entry of the sperm. The fertilized ova (which has already begun its development into an embryo) travels through the reproductive tract of the hen, first receiving the added albumen, then the inner and outer shell membrane, followed by water and electrolytes, and finally the shell. The shell is created by calcium deposition around the forming egg within the uterus. The fertilized ova takes approximately 4 hours to travel to the uterus. Once in the uterus, calcification of the egg's shell takes approximately 20 hours. This is why a hen can only lay one egg per 24 hour period. About 15 minutes after the first egg is laid, the hen ovulates again and the process is repeated. This is why the hen lays a single egg at about the same time each morning until her clutch is complete.
Finches are never considered "pregnant," nor do they "carry eggs." Once the ova is fertilized and the egg is formed, it is laid (video) and the embryo's development is paused until incubation begins. Complications can occur at the time of egg laying, such as "egg binding," a condition where the hen has formed the egg but can not pass it. Egg binding is a serious condition which should be addressed immediately to save the life of the egg bound hen. If the hen lays all of her eggs successfully, the pair will begin to incubate them (some pairs begin incubation after the third or fourth egg is laid while others wait until the clutch is complete). Assuming that the embryo is genetically fit, that the egg it is growing within contains adequate nutrition, that the egg is being incubated properly with the proper humidity, and that no bacteria, fungi, or viruses have infiltrated the egg,  the embryo will resume development. At about day 5 it should be just large enough to be visualized during candling. By day 14-16, the chick will be ready to hatch. If the chick has positioned itself correctly within the egg, it will use its small egg tooth to pip a tiny hole near the larger end of the egg (where the air sac is). The chick will slowly rotate its way around, pipping as it goes, until the "top" of the egg is freed and the chick emerges. Normally chicks need no assistance in doing this, and it is usually in the chick's best interest that you do not interfere with a normal hatching process. The chick may take from a half hour to well over 24 hours to complete the hatching process.3 The parents usually discard of the egg shell by consuming it.
Clear & Unhatched Eggs
If an egg fails to hatch, one of two things must have happened: either the egg was never fertilized in the first place, or the egg was fertilized, but the embryo died before it was able to hatch. Each of these scenarios has many possible causes.
First consider the case of the unfertilized ("clear") egg. One suggested cause of unfertilized eggs is sexual inexperience.1,3 If birds are young or simply new to breeding, it may be possible that they do not yet understand all of the necessary motions that must occur for copulation to be successful. Another possible cause is inappropriate pairing of birds.1,3 If you accidentally paired two hens together, or if you paired incompatible birds of the opposite sex (which did not bond), they will not mate nor produce fertile eggs. Other poor husbandry practices may also inhibit a pair from successfully copulating, including: not supplying a proper nest, not furnishing the enclosure with adequate visual barriers between pairs, disturbing the birds or aviary excessively, pairing birds which are too young or too old to breed, incorrect photoperiod (for birds housed indoors), poor nutrition, and improper temperature, humidity, and so forth (correct environmental cues are important for stimulating many pairs to breed).1,3 Most of these problems can be overcome by improving one's husbandry practices. Unfortunately, however, other causes of infertile eggs still remain which may not be as easy (or even possible) to fix, as they are due to defects in the birds themselves. Although rare, sterility or infertility is a problem for some birds, both male and female, and may be due to genetic causes (as is the case with heavily inbred birds), environmental causes (excessive heat, for instance), age, or disorders (such as infection or tumors of the reproductive organs).1,3 Additionally, any physical handicap which impairs a bird's ability to copulate will prevent successful fertilization of eggs.3 Examples of such disadvantages include lameness, obesity, and loss of limb.1
 Sometimes eggs are mistaken for infertile when in fact they were fertilized but suffered from early embryonic death. The most common causes of early embryonic death are incorrect temperature, jarring of the egg, and lethal genetic traits.3 If the embryo has developed far enough prior to dying, a thin blood ring (as pictured to the right) may be seen upon candling. However, in many cases, early embryonic death cannot be visualized by candling of the egg. Instead, an egg necropsy should be performed to determine if the egg was infertile or if it in fact suffered from early embryonic death. The presence of a white blastodisc is indicative of an infertile egg, whereas the presence of a blastoderm and/or a blood ring is indicative of early embryonic death. Your avian veterinarian should be able to perform the necropsy at your request. Breeding birds in a temperate environment and refraining from shaking the nest and eggs will help to ensure that early embryonic death does not occur. If you suspect that genetics are at fault, you might try to pair your birds with new (unrelated) mates.
Embryos do not always die during the early stage of their development. They may also die during the middle of incubation, usually due to nutrient defficiencies.3 In fact, eggs which are laid by a hen experiencing vitamin deficiency (as is the case with hens fed only unsupplemented seed diets) are expected to die in the middle third of incubation.4 Minor nutritional deficiencies will become magnified as the breeding season continues and the hen's body stores become even more depleted. Although bacterial or fungal infections may also cause an embryo to perish at this stage of development, they are more often responsible for late embryonic death.3
In addition to infection, late embryonic death may also be due to improper incubation (lack of proper temperature and/or humidity) or a genetic abnormality (mainly malpositioning at the time of hatch).3 Providing the parents with a clean nest, a clean cage, and only fresh, clean nesting material will help to prevent the introduction of pathogens to the eggs.3 It is also important that the parents be healthy at the time of breeding, and that no sick birds or fomites are allowed to come into contact with the parents or eggs. Hygiene and proper quarantine procedures are essential to successful breeding. Additionally, birds should be bred in an area which is free of toxins: nicotine, carbon monoxide, herbicides, insecticides and even some antibiotics given to parent birds can all lead to embryo fatality.3 If pairs are being treated with medication, wait until they are finished with the regimen to breed them.
In cases where eggs were fertilized but failed to hatch, an egg necropsy and culture of the contents should be performed by an experienced avian veterinarian to determine the probable cause, enabling you to make any needed adjustments to your breeding program to prevent further unhatched eggs. If a pattern of embryonic death is witnessed (e.g. 1/4 or 1/16 of the eggs die) and no other cause is found, suspect lethal genetic combiations.3 Also be aware that fertility and hatchability of the eggs varies with the age of the parents.3
Egg Repair
Fertile eggs with small puncture holes or thin cracks may be candidates for egg repair. The sooner you repair the egg after it has been damaged, the better. Before handling any egg, always wash and dry your hands. Eggs which have had their shell compromised are very susceptible to entry by pathogens which can kill a developing embryo. Good hygiene, therefore, is a must. Apply a very small amount of nontoxic elmer's white glue to a clean Q-tip and spread it gently and thinly over the crack or hole. (Surgical glue may be substituted for Elmer's). If the hole is too large to cover in this way, you may use a combination of elmer's glue and non-dyed tissue paper to patch the hole. Be very careful to only cover the smallest area possible with the glue, so that the rest of the egg shell can still breathe. If you clog too many of the tiny pores within the eggshell, the chick will suffocate. Allow the thin layer of  glue covering the crack or hole to dry between coats, as several coats may be needed. Once the crack or hole is sealed sufficiently, allow the glue to dry and replace the egg in the nest. Hot dripped beeswax or paraffin wax may be used in place of glue3 (multiple coats are not needed, and it "dries" [cools] more quickly than Elmer's glue). If possible, try to complete the egg repair procedure within a half hour's time so that the egg may be returned to incubation quickly. In a few days, candle the egg to see if the chick is still developing or if it appears to have died. Please be aware that chicks which survive egg repair may need assistance during the hatching process, depending on the location of the glue or wax seal. If the seal is in the way of the pipping area, you may need to help the chick pip through it.
Artificial Incubation of Eggs
First and foremost, please understand that incubation of an egg is a very delicate and precise process. Embryos will only develop within a very narrow temperature range: at higher temperatures within this range, they develop more quickly, and at lower temperatures within this range, they develop more slowly. Temperatures outside of the range (by as little as a single degree Celsius) will result in embryo death.3 If an embryo develops too quickly, it may be too weak to hatch. If it does hatch, it will probably die because embryos which develop too quickly tend to suffer from a greater incidence of physical deformities (such as curled toes and scissor bills) and still have exposed yolk sacs at the time of hatch3 (under normal circumstances, the remainder of the yolk sac is drawn into the body prior to hatch and serves as an energy source for the first hours of life). If an embryo develops too slowly, on the other hand, it may suffer from a delayed hatch and an abnormal physical appearance.3 Therefore an embryo must be incubated at just the right temperature in order to develop correctly.
Temperature is not the only essential parameter in incubation, however. Humidity is also very important, and is most critical during the first third of incubation.3 If humidity is too low, an embryo will become dehydrated, possibly resulting in kidney failure and stunted growth.3 Likewise, if humidity is too high, the air cell in the egg will be small (if it becomes too small, the embryo will die late in incubation) and any chick which does hatch may have an exposed yolk sac among other physical abnormalities.3 Exposed yolk sacs at the time of hatch are problematic because they leave the chick more susceptible to infection; if a chick hatches with an exposed yolk sac, it should be rushed to your avian veterinarian for immediate correction.3
The third critical factor in incubating eggs is turning them. Doing this is necessary to prevent the contents of the egg from sticking to the inside of the shell. During natural incubation, parent birds will turn the eggs on average once every 35 minutes.3 For artificial incubation, turning the eggs an odd number of times between five and eight times a day should suffice.3 Not turning often enough may lead to embryo death (either early or late) among other complications.3 Additionally, eggs should not be rotated in the same direction each time, as this may lead to internal tearing of the membranes and embryonic death.1 Instead, alternate between rotating eggs 180 degrees, and then counter-rotating them 180 degrees during the next turning.1 Always be gentle and slow when turning eggs. Automatic egg turners may be purchased to fit most commercial incubators and egg sizes, and are preferable to manual turning of the eggs. If you are hand turning eggs, I find that it helps to use a nontoxic, fine-point marker to label one side of the egg with an "X" with an arrow pointing right and the other side with an "O" and an arrow pointing left.
Lastly, egg and incubator hygiene is a must. First, always wash your hands prior to handling eggs. Second, do not get eggs wet as this may remove the naturally protective cuticle which surrounds them.3 Third, clean and disinfect the incubator before and after each batch of eggs is placed within it.3 Lastly, clean and disinfect water trays (within incubators which have them) daily.3
With incubation requirements being so precise, it is impractical to attempt to build your own incubator at home. Simply stated, placing eggs under a lamp or attempting to hold them in the palm of your hand will not work. Instead, purchase a commercial incubator. Because such a purchase needs to be made well in advance (in order to purchase, receive, set up, and test that the incubator is functioning prior to using it), it may be advisable to invest in an incubator before you set your birds up to breed. This way, you will have a back up plan in case eggs need to be rescued or maintained until a foster pair can be acquired.
Commercial incubators should be purchased with temperature and humidity measuring devices (preferably two of each so that they may be standardized against each other1), an automatic egg turner, and humidity control (usually water pans located within the incubator). If you can find one, look for an incubator that is a "forced air incubator." Incubators of this type move hot air around, distributing it throughout the inside of the incubator, creating a more evenly heated environment.1 At least one finch enthusiast has had good success with the Turn-X incubator, as documented here.
Once you have received and set up your incubator, let it run for at least 30 days prior to placing any eggs inside of it.3 This will allow the temperature and humidity inside of the incubator to stabilize, as well as to allow you to make sure that it is functioning properly.1 You may wish to leave it running throughout the entire duration of the breeding season, so that it will be primed and ready in the event that eggs must be unexpectedly rescued or incubated for any other reason. Below you will find a table summarizing the parameters for incubating finch eggs, as well as a table for calculating relative humidity inside of an incubator using wet bulb readings (based on a dry bulb reading of 37.5° C [99.5° F]).
| Incubator Settings3 | | Parameter | Value | | Temperature | 37.5° C (99.5° F) | | Humidity | 50-60% (wet bulb reading of 28.5° C [83° F] to 30.5° C [87° F]) | | # of Turns per Day (if manual) | 5 or 7 | | Incubation Length | Varies per species (12-16 days on average, see Specific Species) |
| Calculating Humidity from Wet Bulb Readings (with Dry Bulb at 37.5° C [99.5° F]) | | Wet Bulb | Approximate % Humidity | | 28° C (82° F) | 48 | | 29° C (84° F) | 53 | | 30° C (86° F) | 58 | | 31° C (88° F) | 63 | | 32° C (90° F) | 68 | | 33° C (91° F) | 73 | | 34° C (93° F) | 79 | | 35° C (95° F) | 85 | | 36° C (97° F) | 91 | | 37° C (99° F) | 97 |
Once eggs are due to hatch (the egg has undergone drawdown or the chick has pipped), cease turning the eggs. This usually occurs 24-48 hours prior to the end of incubation (therefore, stop turning the eggs on day 13 or 14). The chick will rotate itself 360° within the egg, cutting as it goes until it opens the top of the egg and emerges. This may take many hours. Do not attempt to assist a hatch unless you repaired an egg and the site of repair is in the way of the chick's pip or cutting area. Several physiological changes are occurring as the chick hatches, and assisting the hatch may interrupt these and lead to weakening of the chick. In most cases, assisting a hatch does more harm than good. If, however, you feel strongly that your chick is in need of assistance during hatching, call your avian veterinarian for advice.
References
1. Harrison, G. J., & Harrison, L. R. (1986). Clinical avian medicine and surgery. Philadelphia, PA: W. B. Saunders Company. 2. Koepff, C. (1984). The new finch handbook. Hauppauge, NY: Barron's Educational Series. 3. Olsen, G. H., & Orosz, S. E. (2000). Manual of avian medicine. St. Louis, MO: Mosby, Inc. 4. Rosskopf, W. J., & Woerpel, R. W. (Eds.). (1996). Diseases of cage and aviary birds (3rd ed.). Baltimore, MD: Williams & Wilkins.
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All double yolk eggs are very large and most of them possess two yolks. Some are infertile but if the cock fertilize well, it will result in 2 normal embryos. Most of the time, death occurred in about 10 days or so. In many cases, one embryo dyes because he lack of air and it causes the other one to dye shortly after even if it is seen from time to time that the other one will go to term. It happens very rarely that both embryo will go to term but when it happens, if they aren’t help to hatched, they will dye.
With some hens, it may happen only once but with some, it may happen more frequently and even most of the time. Such hens are of no value at all. The real reason why it happens is unknown.
Raymond.
Normal ASR egg and a giant ASR egg
I have always been fascinated with eggs and there is not much that I don’t know about them, but this year I am seeing some exceptions to the rule. Very large fertile eggs! These are not double yokers, just very big eggs that produce a baby. I like large eggs and seek hens that lay bigger eggs because large eggs produce large healthy babies in my experience and young from hens that lay little eggs don’t do as well. Go through your eggs sometime and you can note some vast differences between the sizes of what one hen lays verses another hen. Studying eggs can give you some other valuable information, if the egg has calcium deposits on the eggs that stick out like mountains on the sides or tip of the eggs with rough edges, this can be a signal of health issues. Eggs should always be well formed and smooth. An older hen laying a very small egg can signal the end of her laying is at hand, a young hen laying one egg, large or small is never a good sign. In the picture above the egg of the left is wet and the egg on the right has dust on it from sitting in the garage.
Sitting hen
Many fanciers are hesitant to check eggs and prefer to wait until the pair is off the nest, but I believe in taming your birds to the point that they will let you inspect the nest. I reach right in and pull eggs from under a bird when I want to know if the eggs are fertile, soon to hatch or are actually hatching. This can be challenging for a new fancier as even a tame bird will slap you occasionally and even if done lightly is hard enough to crush the eggs if you are not holding them right. Learning how to cover the eggs quickly when you first slide your hand under the bird is critical and returning the eggs safely of equal importance. This all sounds easy and it is and is not. The eggs need to be in the palm of your hand but not touching each other, so some dexterity is needed with your fingers to be able to separate the eggs and still hold on to them.
Wooden eggs
Wooden eggs can be used to practice correctly holding the eggs. It is important to note that eggs are fragile, but not so much that you can crush one and I think the biggest mistake that fanciers make is to not hold them tightly enough and so drop the occasional egg. The second thing that can happen is by holding the eggs too tightly and letting the eggs touch each other, then when a bird slaps the hand, both eggs are broken. By practicing removing eggs and replacing eggs under a tame bird, fanciers can quickly learn how best to hold the eggs during each process. A fancier does not need to be a magician and be able to roll the eggs in circles in your hand; they just need to learn to protect the eggs. I use this very same technique on small babies.
Holding the eggs prior to inserting them under a bird is a matter of choice and my way is to lift the bird up with one hand while holding the eggs, I replace them and move away. Checking eggs is crucial for a number of reasons, but I would recommend getting lots of experience using wood eggs if you are nervous at all.
Dirty eggs must be cleaned or they will not hatch
I check eggs for fertility, but often find other issues that need attention like if your loft is damp from a rain storm or from baths on the loft floor and the eggs get dirty. Experience has taught me to pull these dirty eggs and place them under water for a second to get them wet, then with a finger nail gently remove the build up, rinse again and replace the egg. In the picture above both eggs were dirty and the one on the right was cleaned. Do not worry about this little bit of water harming the eggs as pigeon bath and then get right back on a nest all wet and this is far less water than they get standing in a bath pan.
For eggs that get dented these should not be thrown out as Liquid Bandage can be used to repair the eggs. I brush this on over the dent, let it sit for a minute or so and replace under the pair and it works just like new. Joe
Holding and Switching Eggs
There are often times, at least for some breeders to switch eggs under foster parents for one reason or another.
This is easily done, but the timing of incubation with both pairs needs to be similar. Usually, if the sets of eggs are laid within 3 days of each other, the switch goes uneventfully.
If the babies hatch too early, the foster parents will not have sufficient crop milk, and the babies will perish or develop poorly. If they hatch too late, the foster parents may desert the eggs or already be on the downside of crop milk production.
To achieve the proper timing, eggs frequently need to be “held” before the foster parents have eggs of their own. I have heard many ways of successfully doing this, but what I am going to relate here is what I have experienced personally.
A few years ago I did a lot of egg switching as I rotated hens on the breeding cocks. A cadre of “pumpers” was kept. I always attempted to get the eggs to time out correctly, but often they did not. This results, usually, in holding eggs until a pumper pair lays.
Eggs can be easily held for 3 to 5 days at room temperature, before incubation has started, and placed under foster parents when the timing is right. When held, the eggs should be turned at least twice daily.
Success can be achieved holding up to 10 days but success rate diminishes after 3 to 5 days of holding. Eggs held in the hydrator drawer of a refrigerator can be held somewhat longer.
Some people claim higher success holding the eggs after incubation has proceeded for several days. I have had poorer success doing this.
The developing embryo is very fragile at this time and just a little shaking can cause it’s death. Also it is more sensitive to chill, in my experience. Eggs that have never been incubated usually give the best results when held.
The thing to remember is to stay as close to nature as possible. The natural “window” can be stretched to fit into our manipulation of things. Remember that the longer we stretch it, or the more we manipulate, the less we can expect to succeed.
EGG BINDING
Sometimes a hen will have problems in passing an egg, if you will bathe
the vent with a little warm water and take a medicine dropper and put a
warm olive oil on it the egg will just pass on out.
Links to help
Egg binding, or the obstruction of the uterus or oviduct by an egg, is a common problem seen in female birds. Since it can occur in a female bird, even if a mate is not present, unmated pet birds can also experience this problem. Egg binding can be life-threatening, especially in the smaller species such as finches, budgies, lovebirds and cockatiels.
Most companion birds lay eggs every 24 – 48 hours during their laying cycle, but variability in egg transit time can make it difficult to know when a problem is occurring.
A variety of things may cause egg binding. One of the most common causes of egg binding is an all-seed diet because it is very low in calcium as well as other essential vitamins and minerals. Other causes include obesity, lack of exercise, oversized or mal-formed eggs, excessive egg laying, oviduct infection or damage, heredity and senility are all causes of egg binding.
Egg formation takes approximately 24-25 hours. If an egg remains in the oviduct for an abnormal length of time, a number of problems may result. These problems tend to be most severe in the smaller species. If an egg remains lodged in the pelvic canal, it can interfere with blood circulation in the pelvis and to the kidneys. The egg can interfere with urination and defecation, leading to metabolic disturbances. The egg can press against the wall of the oviduct, causing it to die and rupture.
Clinical Signs
Presenting clinical signs vary with the individual bird. A hen may appear depressed, have an abnormally wide stance, and make repeated straining motions. Some birds may be puffed yet perching, while others may be found on the bottom of the cage. Some birds may even be found dead on the floor of the cage or aviary without any previous warning. Droppings may be larger than normal or no droppings may be passed and the vent may be dilated and swollen.
Diagnosis of Egg Binding
Many birds have a history of prolonged egg laying, while others may have never laid an egg before. If you suspect that a bird is egg bound, it should be examined by an avian veterinarian immediately. In some birds, gentle examination of the abdomen reveals the presence of an egg. It is often necessary to radiograph the bird to determine the size, position and number of eggs present. If the egg shell is not present, ultrasound may be necessary to reveal the presence of an egg.
Treatment of Egg Binding
Egg binding should be considered an emergency. Medical treatment is initiated to stabilize the bird. The bird may be given fluids intravenously or subcutaneously as well as antibiotics, steroids and calcium. It is placed in an incubator at 85-95 degrees F with moistened air. If the egg is not passed within a few hours, additional calcium as well as certain drugs to stimulate contraction and expulsion of the egg may be administered. Sometimes it is necessary to sedate the bird with isoflurane and manually pass the egg. If this is not possible due to the large size of the egg, ovocentesis or aspiration of the egg’s contents, followed by collapse of the egg and removal of the shell may be necessary.
Long term management of birds recovering from egg binding should involve dietary and environmental changes. If the bird is on a seed diet it should be switched to a more balanced diet, including pellets. Ample calcium should be present in the form of natural vegetables. If a supplement is required, oyster shells or neocalglucagan can be used. In addition to an appropriate diet, exercise is necessary to prevent obesity. Hormones and other drugs may be administered to try to temporarily stop egglaying, but a hysterectomy may be necessary for those birds that have repeat occurances of egg binding.
If an egg breaks inside the female, yolk peritonitis, a life threatening situation may result. This is why it is important for a veterinarian to remove the egg and not the owner.
If an egg is visible and not encased in membranes, but stuck to the bird, the owner may be able to apply warm water or KY Jelly as a lubricant and gently remove the egg. However, if the egg is protruding, but appears encased in tissues, the oviduct or cloaca may also be involved and may have prolapsed. The bird should be taken to a veterinarian immediately, while being kept in a warm, humid environment.
EggBound by Linda Pesek DVM
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http://www.pigeon.co.za/medic/
http://www.geocities.com/romafancy/romanewa1.htm
http://www.poultryyouth.com/articles/health/10.html
http://www.pigeonnetwork.com/vetdirectory/vetusa/drdavidmarx/ecoli.cfm
http://www.racingpigeon.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=89&Itemid=73
EGGSHELL
EGG-BOUND
EGGS/EGG BINDING
EGG RETENTION:
EGYPTIAN SWIFT
ELECTROLITES:
Electrolytes for the racing pigeons – good or bad?
From Pigeon Mania.com:
I read a lot about electrolytes lately, and I tend to consider them a very useful product in this sport, during the racing season. However, there are some opinions against electrolytes. Some opinions that I found interesting are below.
1. Receipt of a natural recuperation product for racing pigeons: Electrolytes are minerals and salts such as sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium, etc. The administration of electrolytes is especially recommended after the race as promotion of the recuperation. Heavy muscular efforts make the body liquids acid and cause an increased loss of electrolytes, disturbing the acid base. It has been scientifically proved that the administration of electrolytes improves the recuperation after athletic efforts in a natural way.
Diarrhoea causes an increased loss of electrolytes together with an upset of the waterhousehold and the acid-base balance. The administration of electrolytes is an important support in case of watery droppings.
2. Dr Colin Walker:
During exertion, both water and electrolytes are lost from the bird’s system and he goes on to talk of the need to replace lost electrolytes.
3. Dr. Wim Peters:
Pigeons do not sweat – so where is the loss of the electrolytes, that have to be replaced, supposed to come from? It is stated that sodium and other salts are excreted when bound to lactic acid and that the lactic acid forms when the pigeons do anaerobic exercise (exercise in the absence of oxygen). It is my contention that racing pigeons have no anaerobic exercise and therefore conserve their salts.
Unless a pigeon is losing electrolytes in some form, maybe with enteritis or when the kidneys have been damaged by PMV, there is NO need to use them or when birds vomit, have diarrhea and so on. In these cases their use is absolutely essential , but not for healthy pigeons.
I’m against the use of electrolytes in pigeons. Colin Walker, in his latest book has a different opinion. His argument is that the lactic acid, which is produced at the time of anaerobic exercise, bonds with sodium and other salts to facilitate excretion and is thus lost. This causes loss of electrolytes and a prolonged recuperation period. To prevent this state he recommends electrolyte ‘replacement’. Now if electrolytes were lost I would agree with the rationale but does the bird do any anaerobic exercise when flying normally? Some people here, particularly those in the more humid areas, now wish to use them also before a race. (It’s fairly widely believed that the birds will be properly hydrated!). I don’t like it but maybe I’m missing something? I see that Colin W also advises half-strength electrolytes prior to basketing.
Racing your pigeons when the temps exceed 30 degrees C becomes problematical. (I cannot agree with Bob R who states that 20 to 35 degrees is ‘the ideal range’. I’m sure he didn’t mean it like this.)
Pigeons flying in hot conditions can only lower their body temperature by increasing the evaporation rate from the mouth, throat and lungs. Doing so in the absence of drinking water increases the possibility (danger) of dehydration. The alternative is to reduce or stop its physical exertion – flying. This accounts for the slow velocities and high losses whenever such high temps occur on long distance races particularly. Whenever the temperature exceeds 30 degrees problems begin. Of course there are some birds that can handle high temps better than others. It has a genetic background but roughly speaking the heavier birds are less heat-tolerant than the lighter and smaller-framed.
Racing the pigeons in humid conditions reduces their ability to handle high temperatures.
Any hindrance to the evaporation rate creates difficulties. Under humid conditions evaporation is drastically reduced and hot conditions can become unbearable.
In both the above, the position is seriously aggravated when the birds have to battle a headwind. They keep low above the ground (where it is hotter) and have to work harder against the wind pushing up their body temperatures. Results of races on hot headwind days are usually dismal.
I do not believe that the administration of electrolytes is of any benefit
Unless a pigeon is losing Electrolytes there is NO need to use them. Pigeons on a normal temperate day will drink about 50 ml water. On the day that the electrolytes were given it was hotter than usual and the birds accordingly drank more. The fact that there were electrolytes in the water had little to do with their total intake. They had loose bowels because they were given what amounts to a clean-out – as if given Epsom salts. The loose bowels acted as if a purgative had been administered and this action alone would ensure that these birds would drink more water. In fact it could be so dehydrating that they could die if water were totally absent!
4. Gordon Chalmers:
I seldom use electrolytes on my own birds. My general feeling has been not to use them at all (exception – possibly in cases of severe fluid loss as in diarrhea). I just don’t see the point of using them before a race, since, if birds are managed correctly and have access to a wide-ranging mineral mix at all times, their electrolytes should be at normal levels. Adding electrolytes might just induce unnecessary thirst. I have thought that at times, birds could use electrolytes on their return from a race, but even then I’m reluctant to use them. I much prefer fresh water with no additives when they arrive, but later in the day, I’ll add some glucose or fructose. I really don’t like the idea of half-strength electrolytes as advocated by Colin – my view is that it’s better to avoid them entirely ahead of shipping, and let the birds balance their own systems without electrolytes after they return.
During a race any significant alteration to the regular rate of the wing beat at cruising speed (on average, a normal rate of 5.4 beats per second) such as explosive or dodging bursts of speed, pulling hard against the wind, braking to land, etc. can induce anaerobic glycolysis. That results in the production of some level of lactic acid.
5. Bob Rowland:
Re. Wim’s belief that the administration of electrolytes is of any benefit: This could be a true statement if we were only trying to race a pigeon that is in perfect electrolyte balance and in the absolute best optimal condition and the distances were just ideal etc. The reason for having pigeons take the electrolytes is twofold. First to make sure they have enough for the proper balance and second, to consume more water than they normally would so that they will pack their cells with the water and are not beginning the journey without enough water to complete the trip. When we try to believe that all pigeons will be given equal treatment by the convoyer, I prefer to think that if I can give them a head start going in that this certainly can’t hurt much. If I did not help them, did I hurt them by giving them a possible edge?
Hi everyone,
I have always said it wasn’t good for our fancy pigeons to give them electrolytes one or 2 times a week as many are doing. As we know, many vitamins are sold with electrolytes in it. This has been fabricated for the racing pigeons that comes back from long races and are completely exhausted. I am deeply against them except in certain circumstances.. . I have found a very good article that explain my point of view much better that I would be able to do it. Again, my great sponsor Ad will explain it for me:
Electrolytes by: Ad Schaerlaeckens
“Fanciers often ask me ‘what are electrolytes?’ Are they really useful and when should I give them to the birds? Since it seems to intrigue so many I will give a short explanation but will not go into details, since that would be too complicated a story.
The term is a medical (scientific) one for salts, specifically ions.
They are commonly found in sports drinks for humans and they are used to replenish the body’s water levels after dehydration caused by exercise, diarrhoea, vomiting or starvation.
If a person exercises heavily, he loses lots of electrolytes in his sweat, particularly sodium and potassium, which are major electrolytes and need to be replaced as soon as possible to restore imbalance, once it occurs. Mostly carbohydrates and glucose are added by the manufacturer to provide energy.
PIGEONS
Not only humans but pigeons as well may lose big amounts of salt and ions, especially after heavy exertions in hot weather. Dehydration may be a direct consequence and therefore birds may need some help to restore fluid levels.
How to help them?
‘Electrolytes’ is the word.
The next question may be which are the best?
That is hard to say but… you are on the right track if you find the words sodium (Na), potassium (K), chloride (Cl), calcium (Ca), magnesium (ma), bicarbonate (HCO), sulphate (So3) on the label.
Pretty many different medicinal dehydration sachets or drinks are available for both humans and pigeons. For ‘us’ the best thing is to get them from an experienced vet or a trustable firm.
FUNCTION AND ADMINISTRATION
What do electrolytes do to the body and what are their functions?
· As I said, first of all they restore the fluid balance (replenish the body’s water levels after dehydration caused by exercise or diarrhea).
· Furthermore they suppress the feelings of thirst.
When to give them?
The best timing is directly after the exertion (a race in hot weather). So it should be in the water on homecoming already. It is also useful to give them before basketing if the weather is hot. ‘If the birds come home and nearly fall apart due to the loss of water/salts, you are too late’ In this case you should add the electrolytes on the grains with some (Cure) Oil, thus the typical salty taste of a water solution of electrolytes is avoided. Soon after eating, the electrolytes dissolve in the crop and stomach, birds get thirsty and consequently they will drink an extra volume of water which is well fixed in its system. This will probably give the pigeon a feeling of self confidence too. You can increase this technique by adding, intestinal-conditioners (Cometose). Fibers can suck up a lot of water and keep this water a long period in the intestinal transit. By doing so birds will not try to land during a race and lose time in hot weather conditions. After a long distance race electrolytes may be administered for 2 or 3 days in order to help them to recover more quickly.
FINALLY
It sometimes happens that 10-day-old babies suddenly produce watery droppings; sometimes it is more water than sh… After you have put electrolytes in the drinker the result may be spectacular and within 2 days the droppings may get back to normal. Birds that suffer from Adeno (E coli) drink very much and their droppings are very watery as well. For such birds electrolytes are also helpful. Electrolytes and even sports drinks can be homemade as well, but some expertise is required to use the correct proportions of sugar, salt and water. After this you may have understood that electrolytes, sedochol and beer yeast belong to the very few feed additives in which I believe. Apart from grit of course, but that should be obvious.
EMBRYO
EMBRYONIC DEATH
EMERGENCY BABY BIRD FEEDING
http://members.aol.com/duiven/medical/feedbaby.htm
http://www.duckpolice.org/BirdWeb/PigeonResourceWeb/TubeFeedWeb/handfeed pigeon1.html
EMTRYL (Dimetridazole)
- Description: Dimetridazols is in the 5-nitro-imidazole family of compounds and has been shown to have significant antiprotozoal activity.
- Usage: Trichomoniasis.
- Adverse reactions: Central nervous symptoms with overdosage. Fatalities can occur.
- Dosage: 1/2 to 3/4 teaspoon per gallon for 3 - 5 days (American product no longer available). 1/4 to 3/8 teaspoon per gallon for 3 - 5 days. (Canadian or Mexican product.)
- Comments. Very good for flock treatment. Overdosage with the foreign product is common by individuals using the wrong dosage.
http://www.pigeoncote.com/vet/formulary/formulary.html
ENERGIE’ VITALITY AND STAMINA
http://pigeonracingpigeons.com/2010/03/30/energy-vitality-and-stamina/
ENGLISH POUTERS
ENHEPTIN
ENTERITIS
EXTERNAL WORMS
ENZIMES
EPSOM SALT
ESSENTIAL FATTY ACIDS
EXIBITION HOMER
EYE
EYE CERE
EYE WORM
