MACRO ELEMENT
MAGNESIUM
MAGPIE
MAGNESIUM DEFIENCY
MALATHION
This product was used in the past but is replaced now by new products that are less toxic and more efficient like moxidectin ( see quest gel or moxidectin)
MAIZE:
Recently I asked the following question:
’’I have another question for you. When youngsters are
in the nest, mainly when they are between 14 to 22
days old, why do parents throw maize around so much?''
Here is Dr. Collin Walker answer:
''THE INSTINCS OF BIRDS STILL WORK WELL. IF YOUR
PIGEONS BEHAVE STRANGELY; THEY WILL ALWAYS HAVE SOME
KIND OF REASON.
WHEN YOUNGSTERS REACH THE AGE OF TWO WEEKS, THEY HAVE
AN INCREASED DEMAND FOR FEED COUNTAINING MANY
HIGHT-QUALITY PROTEINS.
MAIZE IS NOT SUCH A FEED.’’
If you have time, when your pigeons are feeding
young’s, at the morning meal, give them half peas
and half maize, more that what they usually eat and
call them to eat… (LOL, I always call my birds
for any meal I give them. This way, I have won races
with my homers because they recognized my
voice and inter into the loft very fast..!) and look
what will happen. The peas are going to be eaten very
fast. When they have finish, you will see much maize
left in the feeding dish and even, throwed outside the
trough. Put more peas and call them again. They will
still eat peas.
The reverse is also seen. In winter, when it is very
cold (-30 to -35) they will eat all the corn until
they get
a full hard crop! They badly need them to keep them
warm!
Yes, the instinct of the pigeons works very well!
Do not hesitate to ask if you have any question.
Raymond Julien,
Canada
Maltese Pigeon;
MANGANESE DEFIENCY
MEDICAL FORMULARY
Purpose: The purpose of this formulary is to provide a concise, accurate description and proper dosage of the common drugs used in pigeons. Experience has shown that various sources provided vastly different dosage levels. Some of which were so high that they were toxic, others so low that they weren't effective. The dosages and other information in this publication were gathered from multiple knowledgeable sources and are the proper dosages and information to the best off our knowledge.
http://www.pipa.be/ja/newsandarticles/ask_the_vet/2345
http://www.pigeontv.com/public/119.cfm
MEDICATION
The most important point about Medication:
**DON’T MEDICATE UNLESS YOU KNOW WHAT YOU ARE MEDICATING FOR!!!!**
There are many medications used in avian medicine today. Veterinarians may choose to prescribe from drugs developed for human use, those labeled for use in dogs and cats, medications compounded from a pharmacy or less commonly, from those actually developed and labeled for use in birds. How a veterinarian chooses a drug to dispense depends on many factors, including the species of the bird, its age, its general condition, what type of disease it has, testing results, drug cost, drug availability, how the drug is formulated (pill, oral suspension, injectable, etc.) and personal choice. Drugs can be given orally, by injection, by nebulization, topically (in the eye, ear canal, etc.), in the cloaca or possibly by a transdermal patch.
From Ed, Siegel Pigeon supplies.
http://www.exoticpetvet.net/avian/avianmeds.html
MEDICINE:
MEDICINE
From Ed Ch.:
It is a well-known fact that one should stay away from medicine as much as possible when birds are moulting. But… in case of health problems you just have no choice. The point is that during the moult birds are more vulnerable to diseases, since renewing the feathers in a short period of time weakens the body of the pigeon so much. One such a problem may be paratyphoid but fortunately the medicine to cure paratyphoid does not influence the moult at all, apart from Baytril (maybe!). Of course you should not medicate against diseases that do not exist, neither in the moulting season nor at other times. If you do, you will undermine the natural resistance little by little until you have a family of birds that cannot be helped any more in case of real health problems. When a German saw the breath taking condition of my birds his inevitable question was what I had given them (Germans are like that, they are addicted to medication and food additives). ‘Nothing at all’ I reacted, adding ‘I give medicine as little as possible, which explains why my birds are so healthy’.Then he asked ‘don’t you need medicine to get birds in such good health as yours?’Questioningly I looked at him and thought ‘poor man, you will be a loser in this sport as long as you are in it’. But as I said, in case of serious problems you just have no choice and you have to take action. The risk of ‘disturbed’ flights is little.
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To all concerned,
I don’t know if this following post has been written in this group or not but any way, I think I should post it as it is an important one. As you probably know, the fancy pigeons, a few years ago were way back in the researches in pigeons compared to the racing homers fanciers were. With the help of Internet, this is changing now but we, fancy pigeon’s breeders, still have much to learn but principally also we have to improve our methods in all possible ways for the welfare of our pigeons. As an example, who in the fancy pigeon’s fanciers were aware of the great importance of the immune system of our pigeons a few years ago?
Here is that post:
Do you know that medicine, researches in pigeons, ''My vet diagnosed streptococcisis in my pigeon by culturing |
MEDICINE CABINET
http://saddlehomersusa.info/ThePigeonMedicine.aspx
MEDICINE FOR PIGEONS
http://www.sandhillvet.demon.co.uk/pigeon_medicines.htm
http://www.exoticpetvet.net/avian/avianmeds.html
METHIONINE
METRONIDAZOLE
MESUREMENTS EQUIVANCES
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The following table may be helpful in converting various measurements.
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MICE
MICRO PLASMA
Millet
From Pigeon paradise
Also known as sorghum contains more protein than corn, but significantly less fat. For the rest it has the same nutritive value as corn and can also make up 25% of the feed.
Red millet
MILK AS PIGEON FOOD
MILK CROP
MINERALS
MINERALS DEFIENCY
MINERAL MIXTURES
MITES AND LICES
By Gord Chalmers, DVM CC: If they were red mites, you'd be able to see them OK, especially when they are full of blood. They are just fast red dots with legs. Those looking for a meal are brownish and they and the red ones can best be seen if you put a white cloth in a nest or perch and leave it for a few minutes. They will crawl all over it. You have to dust nests and perches, especially where there are cracks, as the mites live there during the day and come out to swarm over the birds at night. You could have a biting midge if they are winged. Do they seem to bother the birds?? Permethrin, Malathion, etc. should deal with them too. Permethrin is a good product as it is derived from a plant source. G. By Gord Chalmers, DVM on Sunday, July 23, 2000 - 04:09 pm:
Bill: Brad's advice is pretty good - just be aware that ivermectin by mouth or injection will get ONLY lice and mites that suck a blood meal. It won't get those that live on scales, feathers, etc.. Brad is right that you are likely describing feather lice and that ivermectin on the surface of the bath water will likely help you a lot. If you have a Chinese community in your area, check with them for "Chinese chalk" which is used in the old country to kill lice, bedbugs, etc., in human dwellings. It works well in the loft against feather lice and others. Just scribble a few lines with the chalk on the walls and floor of each perch and nest box, and problem is over in a day or two. G.
MINERALS
http://www.racingbirds.com/vita.html
National Pigeon Association/Dr. James Gratz DVM.
MODENA PIGEON
MODENA PIGEON CLUBS
MODENESER GERMAIN
MONDAINS
MOOKIE
MOORHEAD TUMBLER
MOULT
Moult and all about it from Ad Schaerlaeckens
Honestly speaking I do not feel like writing this article at all. It is about the moult and it is all so useless and unimportant. I do not mean the moult, but what I have to say about it, since pigeons just moult, that is in their nature and there is nothing special we need to do for that. Swallows instinctively and inevitably build a perfect ‘swallow nest’ when it is the time to do so, even though they have never seen other swallows do this before. Healthy pigeons are the same story. They inevitably will moult when it is ‘moulting time’. ‘Why then should I write and should you read about the moult?’ you may wonder. That is because there are so many misunderstanding and… I get many questions on it, mainly from novices and novices should be helped.
MEDICINE
It is a well-known fact that one should stay away from medicine as much as possible when birds are moulting. But… in case of health problems you just have no choice. The point is that during the moult birds are more vulnerable to diseases, since renewing the feathers in a short period of time weakens the body of the pigeon so much. One such a problem may be paratyphoid but fortunately the medicine to cure paratyphoid does not influence the moult at all, apart from Baytril (maybe!). Of course you should not medicate against diseases that do not exist, neither in the moulting season nor at other times. If you do, you will undermine the natural resistance little by little until you have a family of birds that cannot be helped any more in case of real health problems. When a German saw the breath taking condition of my birds his inevitable question was what I had given them (Germans are like that, they are addicted to medication and food additives). ‘Nothing at all’ I reacted, adding ‘I give medicine as little as possible, which explains why my birds are so healthy’.Then he asked ‘don’t you need medicine to get birds in such good health as yours?’Questioningly I looked at him and thought ‘poor man, you will be a loser in this sport as long as you are in it’. But as I said, in case of serious problems you just have no choice and you have to take action. The risk of ‘disturbed’ flights is little.
BE CAREFUL
The medicine in particular that you should avoid are those against worms and coccidiose. If these are based on sulpha they may be harmful if you treat birds for a longer time. As I said medicating birds against paratyphoid when they are moulting will not hurt them but vaccinating them will. I am against vaccinating against salmonella; while others promote it, which is confusing for novices, since vets as well have different opinions. Such a vaccination is real tough and birds may suffer a lot for some days. If you mate up birds shortly after a vaccination you ask for big problems and you may ruin a whole breeding round; Hens may not lay or eggs are not fertile. There should be a break of at least 6 weeks between the vaccination and the day you start breeding.
TEA AND VITAMINS
The firms that sell food additives know fanciers love their birds and will do anything they can to get them in good shape. Therefore they aggressively advertise all kinds of stuff that pigeons absolutely need according to them. ‘You need that shit for good race results, for breeding and to get birds through the moult properly. At least that is what they say. If you do not give your birds our golden stuff you will endanger the next racing season’ one cries out louder than the other. Do not fall for their slogans. Of course an innocent tea will not harm the birds, but I do not believe in tea (any more). Vitamins won’t hurt either if you do not exaggerate, but I stopped believing in them as well. Several times I gave half of my birds vitamins, the others not, and the result was that I did not see any difference at all. So forget all that stuff from now on. It is meant to rob you from your money, for which you might have had worked hard. Please bear in mind there is much money to be made in food additives and medicine; therefore so much money is spent on advertising. Did you ever see an ad on grit? You probably did not. Still grit is far more important than tea, vitamins and so on. Why then, you may wonder, do people not promote grit if it is so important? The reason is simple. It is heavy, not handy and… there is little profit in it.
In the previous article (Thoughts on Moult Part1) I expressed my doubts on many additives that help pigeons through the moult. But do you know in which I believe a bit so far? Sedochol! A firm, known globally, manufactures it and it is cheap. The ingredients methionine, choline and sorbitol are helpful for the liver functions and shortly after you started giving Sedochol you will find the feathers surprisingly much softer. I give it to my birds twice a week, not only when birds are moulting, but 12 months a year. Twice I wrote about it in the Dutch National pigeon magazine NPO, and twice it was reason for my wife to get mad at me. All day long the telephone rang, since people in Holland and Germany wondered where to get it and how to use it. No Belgians called me, since for them it is as normal as grit and they can get it everywhere. In order not to get all those irritating questions by mail, fax, or on the phone I gladly refer to google. Type in the word ‘sedochol’ and you will find what you want. Of course Sedochol is not ‘a must’ but… so far I believe in it and so do many champions especially in Belgium.
FEED
And what about the feed? should you not give birds a ‘special moulting mixture?’ (‘ruimengeling’ in Dutch). The word ‘ruimengeling’ alone nearly makes me vomit. What is the term based on? It lacks every scientific support, so forget it as soon as you can. I take feeding far more easily than I did in the past and give all my birds the same mixture a whole year round. Breeders, youngsters, racers, they all get the same feed 365 days per year; moulting time included. And never ever did any one say to me ‘your birds did not moult well, did you give them the right feed?’ Line seed should be good though for birds that are moulting but it soon goes bad and moreover it happened more than once that a bird died due to a seed that was stuck in the throat. It stands to reason that especially in moulting time that is so hard for the pigeons the feed should be complete with enough fat and protein, but… the feed should be complete a whole year round. As long as the feathers fly around your ears the birds should be fed real well, But one should take a bird in the hand regularly to check its weight. If you notice that the fat in the body has been piled up one should immediately start feeding less. Birds that are too fat are good for nothing, not for racing, not for breeding (fat hens won’t lay eggs) and not for moulting. The birds should not be hungry indeed but skipping a meal every week won’t hurt them, on the contrary, it will stimulate the circulation of the blood and consequently the moult.
LIGHT AND DARK
Manipulating with light and dark influences the hormones enormously which is well known by fanciers who darken their babies. By darkening the pattern of moulting changes completely. During ‘moulting time’ there are fanciers that want to be smarter than Mother Nature and what they do is switch on the light to force the feathers to get out. This is absolutely wrong. There are lots of examples of fanciers that ruined a whole racing season, since they had the lamps on too long in winter. When the racing season was on their birds were moulting like hell and therefore unfit to be basketed. Too many people make this sport more complicated than it is, also in ‘moulting time’. One thing however is an absolute ‘must’: Birds that moult need a bath very regularly. There are special ‘bath powders’, but as for me it is a waste of money. I just put some vinegar and salt in the water, which is good and cheap. Letting the birds out in the rain will also do them a lot of good.
OVERCROWDED
Recently I visited 3 fanciers who complained their birds were not in good shape and did not moult properly. When I looked into the lofts I saw that all three were overcrowded. This cannot be a coincidence, on the contrary!!!
From Pigeon Insider:
A good moult is generally seen as being necessary for a successful racing season next year. A smooth moult and perfect new feathers are signs of good health and good management during the moult. The moult heavily taxes the birds the birds organism. In a very short period of time the bird has to renew all of its feathers. The pigeon gets all the raw materials for renewal of its feathering from the food it eats.
An Indicator
The manner in which the pigeon moults will tell us something about the birds make-up. This information can be used to evaluate the pigeons chances of doing well in the upcoming racing season. For example, pigeons who’s performance the past season did not compare with that of previous seasons, or pigeons that were lost and returned in a run down condition. If these birds have a slow moult and/or the quality of the new feathers is not up to expectation, than this could be used as an indicator of what to expect of the birds performance next year. Then this could be used as a reason to replace these birds on the race team. On the other hand if these birds have a quick easy moult and the feathers are of perfect quality, then this is an indicator that the birds organism has recuperated and next years performances should be good. This should increase the birds chance to stay on next years race team.
Every pigeon that does not go through a good moult gets a big minus besides its name. Only if it has been an outstanding pigeon or if there is a good reason for a poor moult and that the reason for it has been bridged does the pigeon get a chance to stay after the selection.
http://sites.google.com/site/racingpigeonssite/Home/everything-about-health/the-moult
MOULTING PERIOD (more important information)
The Annual Moulting of Pigeons
(From pigeon flight)
As we are approaching the time for the annual moult of our pigeons it might be the opportunity to refresh our memories by having a close look at this annual phenomenon. Most of the local literature and pigeon books agree that in South Africa the moulting season ranges from mid January to end April, mid May, depending on factors such as the date of hatching, whether the birds were breeding etc.
According to Ernest Pawson in his book "Wedvlugduiwe – die praktyk" birds hatched before 15 October will under normal circumstances complete the moult by end April.
Young pigeons will normally take six months and older birds four months to complete the process. The primary and tail feathers are moulted simultaneously followed by the secondaries to be completed plus minus one month later. The moult of the secondaries takes place soon after the moult of the fifth primary. The time it takes the primaries to renew itself is on average three to four weeks.
Soon after the sixth primary has moulted the moulding of the coverts begins. As the large primaries, the last four wing feathers, (also called the fighting feathers due to the beating it takes during flight) are the last to moult, and as indicated above, it might take approximately four weeks to renew a primary, the last two months are of vital importance where the quality of these major primaries are concerned.
Experience has taught us that pigeons, after a very busy and heavy racing season, especially if the races towards the end were difficult, an experience a bad moult because they must undergo the moult without sufficient time to recover and to rebuilt the necessary reserves that are indispensable to them and which the organisms are in need of in order to renew their feather cover.
The moult is controlled by influences such as the hours of daylight, hormones, and to some extent, the temperature.
According to Dr. J.P. Stosskopf a veterinary surgeon resident is Bresles in France in an article published in the magazine "Natural Winning Ways", the feathers are formed in a follicle, the anatomy of which is not well known, but one key organ is a gland which draws on the blood for the various components of the feather and converts them into ...a feather. This of course is a highly complex process but it can be said that the formation of the best feathers is a function of:
• The presence of sufficient quantities of all the necessary constituents in the blood;
• An undisturbed supply of blood to the gland and therefore the absence of any form of lesion in its neighbourhood.
Chemically the feathers consist of keratins, which are proteins very rich in organic sulphur and the minerals silicon, fluorine, zinc, copper and calcium.
Dr. Stosskopf's article continues to explain that the gland referred to earlier on must be able to find and abundance of all these constituents in its blood supply. The avenue for these constituents to reach the gland, is through the quality of feed, during the critical period of the moult, especially when the last four primaries are moulted, and a state of perfect health to enable the perfect absorption of this quality balanced diet. This is a pre-requisite for providing the feather in the course of formation with everything it requires.
Good absorption of the food depends on the healthy state of the intestines, which filters out the nutrients resulting from digestion i.e. amino acids, fats, minerals and vitamins, and also the liver, which carries out the initial conversion.
It is therefore of utmost importance to ensure that the pigeons start their annual moult in super health. The presence of any parasitic or bacterial infection of their intestine or a liver condition will be at a disadvantage during the moult. It is therefore advisable to ensure that your pigeons are in super health before the commencement of the annual moult.
Some champions claim that the next year's races are won during the previous moulting season. So vigilance is absolutely indispensable. A touch of trichomoniasis hanging on (acidosis of the blood), or coccidiosis inflaming the intestine and reducing its permeability of Pseudomalaria (Haemoproteus Columbae) the parasite which invades the cytoplasm of the red blood cells, all very easy detectable conditions, can cost very dear the following racing season.
So why not visit your local veterinary surgeon with two of the pigeons you wish to cull and let him make sure that your birds are ready for this annual phenomenon. This should be done well in advance for your vet might prescribe some treatment for which some time might be needed. Remember that the moulting season is just as important, if not more important, than the racing season, for reasons already mentioned.
It has already been explained that chemically the feather consists of keratins, which are proteins very rich in organic sulphur and minerals. While busy with the chemical constitution of the feather it might be interesting to consider the role of the protein called melanin in the feathers' pigmentation.
In his book "Masters of Breeding Racing" – Victor Vansalen tells us that the dark colour or pigmentation in the pigeon feather consists of a protein called melanin in which an important role is played by an amino acid (tyrosine) and an enzyme (tyrosinase). He continues that the presence of the element copper (only in minute quantities or traces) is an absolute essential for the conversion into melanin. Copper works as a catalyst and the reaction would not be able to take place without it. This melanin, the feathers' colouring matter, which has to increase resistance to friction including that of air, is therefore indispensable during the annual moult. It might be of interest at this state to note that green peas (Rondo) contains 0.80 mg/100g. of copper as opposed to wheat at 0.17 mg/100gr.
Dr. Stosskopf also has sound advice on the health of the plumage especially during the formation of the feathers during the moult. According to him diet plays an important role during the moult. There are certain dietary requirements pre-requisite for a good moult. These are the proteins from leguminous seeds in sufficient quantities – but no more – lets say 30%. Fats in large quantity for the fatty acids of vitamin F (linoleic acid and its compounds), i.e. linseed oil, rape etc. Traditional minerals (calcium, phosphorus, silicon), vitamins A, D3, B6, PP (brewer's yeast, multi-vitamin complexes) and finally sulphureted amino acids such as cystine and methionine which means that you will choose grains which are rich in these constituents (sunflower, cardy) or artificially add supplementary multi-vitamin compounds of which there are a wide range of South African products available.
The fine plumage in the process of formation must stay fine. The shape and length of each feather is fixed for a year, until the next moult, whenever it occurs. The enemies of good plumage will resume their activity as soon as the new feather is formed. It might be of interest to mention a few; Syrinophilus which passes from the old feather to the new, fortunately not very common; Mange a parasite living at the base of the feather, in the follicle, where it enters the skin. Microscopic examination is necessary to uncover these parasites; the feather lice (Colunbicola Columbae) and the Pigeon fly (Pseudolynchia canariensis) the cause of Pseudomalaria. All should be eradicated before the start of the annual moult.
Just as important to eradicate the ectoparasites attacking the plumage from the outside is the eradication of the endoparasites (internal worms). There are many of them but mainly the ascarids, hairworms, (Capillary species), tapeworms etc. These are very easy to eradicate once their presence is known – but this must be done before the new plumage is grown! Deworming during the moulting season is not advised!
Another matter concerning the annual moult is whether the birds should be kept closed up or given open loft during the moulting period? During my research I did not find anything published on the matter. Many of the fanciers I know allow their pigeons an open loft during the moulting period. Unfortunately I did not inquire as to the reason for this practice but a calculated guess could be that due to the large number of youngsters added to the team the loft might be a bit crowded and that the open loft may alleviate the problem. Another reason might be that exposure to direct sunlight is beneficial to the birds, which cannot be questioned.
My concern, however, with the practice of open loft is the dangers of fielding exposing the birds to unwanted particles, gutter water and possible poisonous substances. One of my friends who was a champion participant once told me that he practiced open loft but closed his birds in during the month of February. An alternative to open loft is to keep the birds in the loft but then I would suggest that the lofts are equipped with an aviary allowing the birds sufficient oxygen, sunshine and a facility for a regular bath, this has an energising effect on the metabolism and influences the moulting development. A little added bath salt to the bath water improves the desired reaction. If this practice is adopted I would suggest that the birds be allowed at least two exercise spins during the week. I will also keep them closed up with access to the aviary during the month of February to expedite the moulting process.
There must also be different sorts of grit, chalk and stone and minerals at their disposal in the loft or aviary. I find it a good practice to throw some fresh grit down the aviary in the mornings. It is also advisable to provide some vita-minerals twice a week if no supplementary products containing vitamins are provided.
To conclude the article it might be of interest to some fanciers to have a look at various moulting mixtures formulated by two companies in Belgium.
Company A
Maize: 24%
Wheat: 20%
Barley: 14%
Sorghum: 6%
Peas: 27% (mixture)
Tares: 1.5%
Linseed: 1.5%
Rapeseed: 1.5%
Millet: 1.5%
Cardy: 3%
Company B
Maize: 30%
Wheat: 13%
Barley: 10%
Sorghum: 12%
Peas: 23% (mixture)
Tares: 2%
Linseed: 2%
Rapeseed: 2.5%
Sunflower: 2.5%
Cardy: 3.5%
Do not forget the importance of including green peas (Rondo) in the mixture!
Both companies recommend that the mixture be supplemented by by-products and supplementary compounds such as moistening the feed with an oil substance of which there are many commercially available and brewers yeast powder or other products containing multi vitamins, amino acids, minerals, trace elements, electrolyte and anti internal parasite control components. These products are usually high in the essential amino acids methionine, lysine and cystine which are often in short supply in the grain mixtures. When the amino proportion does not quite represent the feed proteins, the absorbed proteins can only be partially used. Sufficient methionine in the feed mixture or additive strongly influences the degree of participation of all the other amino acids in the protein synthesis and as a sulphur carrying agent it is of special importance in the qualitative development of the feathers and therefore it must never be first limiting in the moulting time feed mixture or additive.
If you don't mix your own feed, check the commercial mixture you are using to satisfy yourself that you are not taking any chances, because once the moulting season is over there is nothing you can do to correct any possible mistakes you have made, and that can cost you dearly! Finally to check if your pigeons have had a successful moult, fan the tail feathers and check if the two outside tail feathers were moulted. 'This is easy to observe as the pigmentation of the new feathers will be much darker than of the previous year.
Good luck with your moulting season!
By Joggie Peters
MOXIDECTIN
Moxidectin - A clear water-soluble wormer that not only
eliminates roundworms and hairworms but also eradicates all external parasites
(including airsac mites) that feed off body fluid. Readily taken by the birds,
there is no need to withhold food. The wormer of choice during racing, breeding
and moulting.
MoxidectinQuest Gel
By Mike Glynn
Get a clear plastic pop bottle or water bottle about the same size as
pop bottle. Put about 2 inches of luke warm water (not hot, about
body temp.) in the bottle. On the oral syringe of Quest Gel horse
wormer are 50 lb. markings on the plunger. They are the black marks.
Set the sure dial ring on the 200 lb. setting. Take the cap off the
nozzle and push the plunger in until it comes in contact with the
syringe barrel. Put the bottle cap on the pop bottle and shake until
dissolved. It takes quite a bit to dissolve it, but it will dissolve.
When it is completely dissolved, pour the entire contents into a one
gallon milk or water jug. Fill the jug completely full with water.
This is the correct dosage. Using the jug of treated water, put
enough treated water in your water jugs to last 24 hrs. Repeat the
process as needed. Make sure the gallon jug is a true gallon, not one
that gives an extra 8 oz of free water.
Tip: The box reads that there is enough to worm an 1150 lb. horse.
There is really enough to treat 1200 lbs. If you'll notice, when you
take the cap off the nozzle, there is gel all the way out to the end
and ready to come out immediately. When you eventually use all the
gel in the syringe, you'll be at the 1150 lb. mark. However, the
nozzle is still full. I pull the plunger all the way out of the
barrel and put luke warm water in the barrel, about half full. I then
put the plunger back in and force the remaining gel out to complete
the last 200 lb. measurement. Give to thirsty birds for one day. Can
be given two days with no ill effects.
Mike Glynn
MOXIDECTIN PLUS
Below is an article from Dr Colin Walker of Australia regarding Moxidectin plus. There’s also a moxidectin for horses but that something different.
Fadiel
MOXIDECTIN Plus
Category Anthelmintic
Active ingredients Moxidectin, praziquantel
Guaranteed analysis Moxidectin 2 mg/ml, praziquantel 18.8 mg/ml
Available sizes 125 ml
Directions
Flock treatment – Dilute at the rate of 5 ml to 1 litre of drinking water and make available to the birds for 24 hours. The solution should be made fresh prior to use and provided in a clean drinking vessel. Remove all other sources of water
Individual bird treatment – 0.25 ml per 400 g (pigeon) body weight
Notes
Moxidectin Plus is a fully water-soluble palatable syrup. Added to the drinking water for 24 hours, it clears roundworm (Ascaridia spp.), hairworm (Capillaria spp.) and tapeworm (cestode) infection. It is also effective against all external parasites that feed off body fluids, including mites and pigeon flies (Pseudolynchia spp.). Moxidectin Plus also eliminates airsac mites (Sternostoma spp., Cytodites spp.). It has a wide safety margin and is safe to use during racing and breeding. It does not affect feather quality and is safe to use during moulting. Moxidectin Plus does not cause nausea and so the birds can be fed and loft-flown normally during treatment
Not to be used in birds producing meat or eggs for human consumption
Storage
Store below 30C (room temperature) in a dry place
Moxidectin Plus - This wormer has all of the benefits of Moxidectin along with the added ingredient of praziquantel for tapeworm control, making this the best all-round wormer for pigeons. Developed by Dr. Colin Walker, "The Flying Vet." (Australian Pigeon Company)
MUFFED TUMBLERS
MUSCULAR SYSTEM